Lead Gutters (Continued)
Good "working solder"—used with the ladle and the soldering-cloth—is made up by melting pure lead and block tin together in the proportion1 of 2 lb. of lead to 1 lb. of tin. "Strap solder"—used with the copper hatchet bolt—is made in the proportion of 1 lb. of tin to fully 1£ lb. of lead. Some just made I find is in the proportion of 1 lb. of tin to 1 lb. 9£ oz. of lead. Some gas-fitting solder just made is in the proportion of 1 lb. of tin to 1 lb. 2 oz. of lead. Some use equal parts of tin and lead for their finest solder.
In making up solder, especially "working solder," or " plumber's solder," great care must be taken that no zinc gets near, for a very small piece of zinc spoils a large pot full of solder. For this reason sheet lead is generally pre¬ferred before the patent lead pipes. Formerly sheet lead was cast; now, however, it is generally rolled or milled. For special cases, however, good cast lead is still preferred.
The length of the back gutter is also sometimes less than that of the front, owing to the stone gable-coping coming down to the outside edge of the back gutter, and so forming the ends of the gutter up against which the lead at each end has to be turned, whereas in the front this stone " skew," or gable-coping, stops off per¬pendicular with the line of the wall, the cornice, including the gutter channel, being beyond it,
After laying the gutters, the lead "flashings," which extend up the roof from each end of both the back and the front gutters, have then to be put on (that is, supposing them to be put on, as is often done, before and underneath the slates). In this case twelve pieces of lead are required; four for the flashings for skews which extend from the gutter to the chimneys; four pieces for the " barges," or breaks, or projections at chimneys; and four for the flash¬ings up the sides of the chimneys. These, for the different places, are of different lengths and breadths. The flashings for the " skews," or gable-coping T T, being, say 11 ft. long and 13 in. broad, this 13 in. is taken up by 6 in. on the roof, 4 in. up the side of the skew, and 3 in. on the top of the skew, including half-inch bent down in the groove, or chasing, or "raglet»" as it is called in Scotland, cut to receive it.
This "skew*' or stone-coping of the gable wall, T, as shown by the sketch, Fig. 46, is generally only half the breadth of the chimney, the latter being about 2 ft broad, or the same thickness as the gable wall. The lead " barge," or chimney corner-piece, u, goes where the skew and the chimney meet, and is put on so as to overlap the top of the skew-flashing, and at the same time be itself overlapped by the flashing of the chimney, V, which comes down on it. This " barge," u, has also to overlap a small portion of the slating, as may be understood from its position on the sketch.
The dotted lines show the margin of the lead flashings on the roof, as also at the same time the situation of the "doubling" — except the "barge" below the chimney, which, as was observed above, goes on the top of the slates. The "doubling " being put on thus, a channel for the water is formed between it and the chimney and the stone side of the skew. The lead for each barge, on account of its situation, has to be fully 2 ft. broad and about 13 in. deep; its depth is taken up by 8 in. or 9 in. on the roof and 4 in. or 5 in. up the face of the chimney.